Who says the East Coast doesn't get big waves? Hurricane season is coming
to a close and there are not even any tropical depressions to be found in
the Atlantic. But, some sort of strange wind pattern off the coast made
some sizeable waves for the mid-Atlantic.
Saturday was not warm. The water wasn't bad at 65 degrees, but the air was
only 55 degrees. Erik decided it was time for a hood.

(Part of) Erik and I paddling out saturday. Erik managed to make it out
through the crashing waves, but I spent the day on the inside mush. I
was probably better of for it, though. After Erik paddled out he got
caught in a huge wave that broke his leash. I watched as his board surfed
by without him. It was the longest ride of the day.

I felt like I was paddling forward, but Mike later told me that I was
actually moving backward most of the time.

The shorebreak was rough at times.

Erik and Nancy heading out.

So tempting, but so difficult to paddle out.

I took my new shortboard out. I was hoping for some medium-sized waves to
try it out and get the feel of it, but I had to settle for riding the
whitewater.

A brief ride.

There were a couple guys who made it out. They caught some really
impressive waves out there.

Ghost rider.

A seagull passing by.

Sunday was better. The waves were about the same size, but instead of
coming one after another with no break they came in sets with brief lulls
in between. Peter and I managed to make it out past the breakers just
before low tide. The quality wasn't that great, but the size was
impressive, especially for the East Coast. It got cold and Peter paddled
in, but I stayed and waited for a good wave. After about 2 hour it came.
I got a brief ride and then paddled in.

When I came out I found out Nancy's adventure. She got pushed onto the
rocks by the strong waves. They must have shifted direction, because Peter
and I paddled out by the rocks and there was no current at the time. In
the confusion of climbing back onto the rocks she unleashed herself from
her board. The current was so strong in the inlet that the board promptly
went out to sea, never to be seen again. Not too long after that not one
but *two* guys broke their boards in half in the big waves. Quite a day.
Later in the day the quality improved as the wind died down. Peter tried
to paddle out, but just drifted toward the rocks of the inlet. I decided
not to even bother. "Big Wave Dave" came by and caught a couple nice ones
on his long board.

Here's Dave again.

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