Camping in the rain and howling wind doesn't make for great sleeping, but
the wind does make good waves for surfing. After a decent day saturday
Erik decided to brave the rough waters for one last session before heading
home sunday. I got some pictures of him in action and then decided to
head out with him for the next round. The camera was limited in batteries
and memory, so only Erik's initial "testing the waters" session was
Wading out through the foam.
Paddling out through the whitewater.
Erik about to stand up on a nice wave.
Riding a nice one.
Almost catching one. When I went out later I had trouble with timing the
waves and positioning myself correctly. The current was moving fast along
the shore, and the waves would come in diagonally and then turn toward
shore before breaking.
Erik getting a really sweet ride on this head-high plus breaker.
Later on the same wave. Erik just kept going and going with this one.
After this ride he came back in. The current was so strong that he had
drifted about a mile down the shore in maybe half an hour.